Thursday, October 09, 2014

The Daisy Dresses Set




                                   

                                          Daisies by Hermann Seeger, German, 1857-1920

                                       

The mother-daughter dresses are complete and I am working on my own outfit using the daisy fabric from Fabric Tradition.  This is very expensive quality cotton, a heavier weight than a lot of cotton prints.  The print comes in a blue background and also a yellow background, as well as a white background.  It is quite expensive unless bought using a coupon.  I purchased a yard every time I was near the fabric store until I had collected enough.  They look like some of the Prairie dresses at Kattle Kate, so I call them prairie dresses. 

The ruffle on the hem was to add length which I found out was preferred, and I used the selvedge for the hem.  One thing you need to know about sewing with cotton is that it makes the garment heavier than a manufactured store-bought dress,  which is the reason I have little techniques to keep from adding weight to the dress. I avoid doubling the fabric or interfacing or added stitching if it adds more bulk or heaviness to the garment. For example, I only iron on interfacing for the button and buttonhole areas, not the back of the neckline.  I do not put interfacing on sleeve cuffs, and I never fold over the fabric in two layers for ruffles or collars. I use the selvedge where It works so that I do not have to make a hem, for example, on the straight edge facings where the buttons go.


The girls dress has a bow attached to the back to cinch in the waist, which can be removed for growth.

The girls size dress form was hand made, and you can read more about how to make one here: http://thepleasanttimes.blogspot.com/search?q=Dress+form


It also has pockets, which girls like, and I may add them to the ladies dress.  Pockets have to be more heavily stitched by reinforcing them with machine stitching several times at the upper corners. These are the areas that will rip open easily.


This is how I store my patterns in stackable drawers, and there are other categories not seen in the photo: men and boys patterns, sleepwear, accessories, blouses, skirts and aprons.


I used parts of this old pattern for the adult daisy dress.  One thing I really like about some of the used patterns I buy at goodwill is the thoughtfulness of the previous owners, who often iron each tissue piece and fold it with the name of the piece in view. That way, I can get a sleeve or a bodice without having to unfold a lot of tissue and then struggle to get the whole bunch neatly  back into the envelope.
As you can see, I use the zip-lock freezer bags from Dollar Tree to store my patterns in.  If I am in a hurry to clean up my sewing area, all the pieces fit in his bag and I do not have to fit them back in the pattern envelope.  The bag keeps the picture of the garment protected.


David textiles are sold in some Walmart fabric departments, and are a favorite of mine to sew with.  


I received a treat  in the mail today: a book by the same author as one I previously wrote about called "In the Garden With Jane Austen."  This one is called "Tea With Jane Austen" and it explains a lot of history and gives some recipes from the 1700's.  



Picking Daisies, by Hermann Seeger, Germany

The dresses do not really drag on the ground as it appears in the picture. The dress forms are not very tall.

Tuesday, October 07, 2014

Fields of Daisies


            






It has been another gloriously green day with plenty of sun, and  hot summer temperatures.



                                
I have finished the "Daisy Dress" and am eagerly working on the girls matching dress.  I will post a photo of it later.  The cotton is another Fabric Traditions brand.








On the table is another piece of that rough cotton fabric I showed yesterday in the cranberry color.  I was interested in this fabric and all its coordinates because the price was so affordable, but it is a heavy weight and I am not sure I would make a dress from it. 


I did put a bucket of white house paint on the porch over there on the right. I have not painted the railings yet but at least I am thinking about it.



Monday, October 06, 2014

Tea and Toile


                                

                                            Magnificent  Rose by Ludwig Van Houtte 


                                     

It has been another glorious day, an answered prayer around here. We endured a terrible winter last year and are not hurrying autumn, so the 90 F (approx 30 C) temperature is not complained about. The sunny days  gives me the opportunity to do all the things that shorter summers do not afford.  I am going to use the good weather to launder all my linens and get them pinned on the line for that beautiful scent. 

        

This fabric I used for my tea table today is an all-cotton print from Walmart that comes in variations. There is one like this with a white background.  It is less than $3.00 a yard, so to make an adult dress, would cost $12.00.  It ranges from a heavier weight to a lightweight, and the heavy weight has a grainy look that resembles denim.  I have plans for this piece but will show it later.

       
The fabric reminded me of a toile fabric article in a 1990 Victoria magazine, so you can see hints of what I might make with this fabric.  It also comes in shades of green, purple, blue, red, and variables of prints.  In lieu of toile fabric, I am going to use this cotton fabric for some interesting sewing.

                                

                     There was an article in this issue about the history of toile fabrics. 

                               
The color of the toile wrap, below, is similar to the cotton print I used on my tea table and which I will be sewing into an article of clothing.

       

The skirt in the picture below is a quilted toile.  Wouldn't that be nice for winter wear?

                                   

                           These are a few other pictures I liked in the October 1990 issue.

       

       

       
 

 This is what it looks like all around me today; the type of scene that inspires a long walk, a picnic, the reading of a good book, sketching or writing a letter,  and of course  thoughts of pretty fabrics and things for the home.
        


Today I would like to address the problem of discouragement. What do you do when you lose your enthusiasm for homemaking due to discouragement, complaining or bad news?  It sounds simplistic to quote Philippians 4:8 again, but in it you have the answer: think on whatever you can that is lovely and good. Do not have a steady diet of bad news and gossipy people. Limit the complainers and those that cause trouble, whether it be from media or from people you know. Become skilled in pointing to greater, more productive things.

To keep a positive momentum, do what you would do if there were no hindrances.  Live as you would live if the setbacks had not occurred.  Rest awhile but keep a dream and a goal in your heart for which to strife. If you have lost time or posessions, keep working as though time was on your side and you had abundance.

God knew the effect of thinking good thoughts, because He is an expert in human behavior. He told us to think on whatever things are good and virtuous for a reason. It produces an uplifting feeling. It increases gratefulness and creativity, all things which are very good for your mental and physical health.

Php 4:4    Rejoice in the Lord alway: and again I say, Rejoice.

Php 4:5    Let your moderation be known unto all men. The Lord is at hand.

Php 4:6    Be careful for nothing; but in every thing by prayer and supplication with thanksgiving let your requests be made known unto God.

Php 4:7    And the peace of God, which passeth all understanding, shall keep your hearts and minds through Christ Jesus.

Php 4:8    Finally, brethren, whatsoever things are true, whatsoever things are honest, whatsoever things are just, whatsoever things are pure, whatsoever things are lovely, whatsoever things are of good report; if there be any virtue, and if there be any praise, think on these things.

Php 4:9    Those things, which ye have both learned, and received, and heard, and seen in me, do: and the God of peace shall be with you.







As Sunday was filled up with all kinds of things, I did not get a chance to sew, but today I made a little progress on one of the daisy dresses.  I almost have the bodice finished except for the buttons. I have one more dress after this, a nautical type, and then I am going to try to move on to solid color suits that look more serious. What I am making now are things to wear at home when ladies want to be more dressy but still need to get their work done and do not want to wear anything too formal. For a garment to function in homemaking,nit cannot have a full, swirly skirt that will catch on things or get caught in doors, and yet it cannot be such a straight skirt that makes it hard to walk in or work in. So I have narrowed the skirts but left gathers at the waist for a roomier skirt.  Skirts cannot be so long that the hem might be stepped on, yet not too short.  I am trying to make them a just-right length for the tasks at hand in the home.


If this dry weather continues, I will be able to paint that wood railing on the porch.


These prints are also called toile, even though there is no scene on them.


Another page of Victoria October 1990 and the toile coat.

Sunday, October 05, 2014

Soft Sunday Afternoon


An Interested Audience by Charles MacIver Grierson (1864-1939) (Ireland)


We have been blessed by a pleasantly warm day, still in the 80's, with scenes of lush green lawns and bright blue skies.  I noticed the Pink Doll pumpkins were being sold at a grocery store but the price was $10.00 apiece, so I am thinking about buying seeds and trying to grow them myself.





Monday is a day of planning, but it is always according to the weather.  If I list a lot of indoor chores but the weather is very warm, I will do a lot of things outside such as clean the porches, hang out the wash, water the garden, and clean out the car.  I have two lists: one for indoors and one for outdoors.








Here is a verse that was being discussed in a Bible class recently:

Tit 2:11    For the grace of God that bringeth salvation hath appeared to all men,

Tit 2:12    Teaching us that, denying ungodliness and worldly lusts, we should live soberly, righteously, and godly, in this present world;

Tit 2:13    Looking for that blessed hope, and the glorious appearing of the great God and our Saviour Jesus Christ;


To live soberly and righteously is not so dull as some might think. There is so much to do and so many opportunities to learn things, that one cannot possibly do it all.  Worldliness, or participation in silliness and vice, wastes so much time and can hinder any progress towards things that are worthwhile.


For every thing that the Word of God tells us to avoid, there is something delightful and good and beneficial for us.  We must not feel that denying ungodliness means to deprive ourselves of enjoyment, for there are countless ways to be fulfilled at home while caring for husband, children and homes.






Friday, October 03, 2014

Historic Garden Tour Dresses


Roses, by Ignace Henri Jean Fantin-Latour,  (January 14, 1836 - August 25, 1904) France.




Today I finished the "Garden Tour" dresses, (and I am making sew-in labels for each dress with the names I made up for them) which were going to be worn to a popular garden tourist spot. These are also "wear at home" dresses for the lady who wants to spend her days at home but wants to wear something pretty and cheerful and not too casual yet not uncomfortably dressy.  These are made from good cotton, and are very soft, comfortable and ladylike.  

The waists are loose but there are ties in the back of the dresses to pull the garments closer if needed.


The neckline on this dress has a soft curve near the top button and it looks lovely on the owner of the dress.

This was from the Nuemode USA pattern I ordered, written in German, but I was able to figure out how to put it all together because it was so similar to the patterns I used in the 1980's and 1990's.


I added a ruffle to the neck of the girls dress because this little girl only wants Victorian styles these days. 

The sleeves are different than previous ones I have made on this dress series, and the dress has the look of some of the historic dirndle dresses.



I posed the dresses on dressforms this time but discovered later the photo was not as sharp as I wanted it to be. However I doubt I will haul those dress forms outside again for a better picture. 


It has been a soft, dappled-sun day in the mid-80's F, (approx. 28 C) and I am so happy that I got the extended summer I was hoping for.  Sunshine adds to my sewing ideas and enthusiasm.

Tomorrow I hope to finish the last mother-daughter dress set I have planned (unless you want more :-) I want the days to last longer so I can do more! I feel like I am on a vacation at a nice resort in this weather and I imagine I am making special clothes for each occasion; a garden tour, tea at the lake, dinner and a sunset, a stroll at the beach and shopping! In reality these are homemaker clothes for the myriad of things a lady at home needs to do.

 The quilt, above, has a story. I cut the pieces out 25 years ago and life got busy for me in other ways, so I never got anything sewn.  I kept them in a large zip plastic food bag.  I was sorting through my sewing and trying to pare down and eliminate some of it, so I put the bag of squares in the give-away pile.  I did not notice my daughter had rescued them. On one of my birthdays she presented me with the finished quilt.  I am so glad she rescued the fabric project because I have enjoyed this little throw with its tropical colors.



Since I was thinking about having "more" summer, the word "more" caused me to remember this song. We all like more of good things. This song has some "more" that is really important:


More holiness give me, more strivings within.
More patience in suffering, more sorrow for sin.
More faith in my Savior, more sense of His care.
More joy in His service, more purpose in prayer.

More gratitude give me, more trust in the Lord.
More zeal for His glory, more hope in His Word.
More tears for His sorrows, more pain at His grief.
More meekness in trial, more praise for relief.

More purity give me, more strength to o’ercome,
More freedom from earth-stains, more longings for home.
More fit for the kingdom, more useful I’d be,
More blessèd and holy, more, Savior, like Thee.

The poem was written by Phillip P. Bliss in 1873 and many churches  throughout the world sing it still, and sing it regularly in worship services.  I was thinking how many of our hymns are the ones the Victorians wrote and sang. We have a historical connection, in that way, with our forebearers.




Wednesday, October 01, 2014

Summer Still



We are having warm temperatures and are still in our summer clothes. Today the grass was so lush and the color so bright that I could not resist setting up a lunch table outside

The round tablecloth is made from a 50-inch wide piece of fabric.


The leaves on the ground are the old brown dried ones that are from last year, and so far the tree leaves are still green.  I am delighted that we have an extended summer.



On the back of the chair I have put a small blanket because I like the shades of color. The white really sets it all off.

The cup and plate set I found at Goodwill and hope some day to find more of these sets.


Restaurants around here use these paper doilies under the cups of coffee and tea to absorb any drips. It keeps your clothes from getting stained due to a drop of tea on the plate.  These doilies fit perfectly on a teacup saucer and are available at Dollar Tree.








The trees leaves are still green.


I have finished the bodice of the Garden Tour dress.

The fabric is from Walmart and is another Fabric Traditions, quite high in price, so I am buying it little by little.  When I finish this dress I am going to start on one for me.


The important looking antique book on the tea table is really a box which holds my tea-time treats.

I found these Melamine plates at an old fashioned dry-goods store and they fit in my picnic basket just fine, plus, the colors are good with this tablecloth.


This is the pattern I am using for the dress I am working on.  It is a German pattern and a lady at church who is from Germany translated it for me.  Neuemode USA patterns are available online but they have a few differences. For one, you have to add the seam allowance yourself.  The sizes seem smaller than the same size in US patterns, so I have had to add a piece of fabric in the back.


Things are still very spring-looking around here, which helps me stay enthusiastic about sewing summer dresses for the home.  
Several readers requested that I post the old patterns I use for the house dresses I have shown in previous posts.  This is one of them, from 1996. I use the v-neck without the collar. It is really a very shapely dress, although the pattern does not show it. It looks great on the models.


To make it faster to sew, I do not include the button opening on the skirt.  I make a seam instead. I cut the sides od the bodice larger, at least an inch, so that the garment is easy to pull on.  I also cut the facings simpler and do not use the ones shown on the diagram that are intended for sleeveless dresses.  I use sleeves from other patterns and I am learning to make my own sleeve designs, from an old book called "How to Design Your Own Patterns"  dated 1943 by Claudia Ein, which came from Goodwilll.

You can see how to make a variety of sleeves from sleeve patterns you already have, on Lillibeth's blog here http://thepleasanttimes.blogspot.com/2008/04/fun-with-sleeves.html or type in Fun With Sleeves on her search area at The Pleasant Times. She made doll dress sleeves by following the instructions in that book, for all the different sleeve styles.